Cambodia
Only the second bit of graffiti we spotted in Cambodia.
Had a bit of a “set to” on the bus when we first got on as they wanted our passports so as to get our visas for us. We wanted to get our own visas as this would save us $25. They wouldn’t go with that and we wouldn’t give up our passports. Got big boss on the phone (twice) and after we were threatened with being left at the border we relented. Though not after a few cross words had been exchanged.
The first thing we noticed driving through the Cambodian countryside on our way from Ho Chi Minh City to Phnom Penh was the increase in poverty. Quite markedly so with children wearing rags, without shoes and looking generally very unkempt. Back to seeing houses on stilts too and, as Vietnam, paddy fields everywhere.
The traffic was outrageous getting into PP. Bad roads with the biggest pot holes I’ve ever seen. More like craters. And dust everywhere.
Got off the bus in Phnom Penh early evening, jumped in a tuk-tuk and made it to our new digs, Channasoda Hotel. Nice enough, TV, fridge, comfy beds and all for $20 including breakfast.
Had a bit of a walk around to get our bearings and first impressions. ATM : you get US Dollars? that threw me. Cambodia uses the Riel but everything everywhere is listed in dollars. Change is given in Riel or a mix of Riel and Dollars. Everyone currency converts the whole time. This is going to be fun I thought. My maths isn’t the best and I am the money monitor for the trip. Only 6000 riel to the pound (rounded down) and 4000 to the dollar. And 1.5 dollar roughly to the pound. Easy peasy.
We ended up in a family run restaurant (Sinan) just round the corner from our place. Lovely food. Paul said he already preferred it to Vietnamese. Cockles with tamarind sauce, raw beef salad – full of fresh herbs, yummy. A few light beverages and bed. Joe now got conjunctivitis ( inevitably).
Made it !!!!
We decided to hire scooters again as they are a great way to whizz around and give a bit of extra freedom to roam. Off to the Killing Fields which is about 15km from the city.
OMG! didn’t I say the traffic was hideous ? What the hell? Definite madness.! There seemed to be even fewer road rules here than Vietnam and there weren’t any there. 2 official lanes but in fact 5 or 6 unofficial ones. Chaos! More cars here too. Riders just pull out from the side roads or wherever and don’t look. Not one of them – must be the system. And the roads are in really bad nick so you have to watch right, left, forward and behind and down in case you end up going into a hole. I don’t think I have ever concentrated so much in my life. As bikes do, they weave in-between cars, lorries, tuk-tuks so the best thing to do is just that. Otherwise you won’t get anywhere. I must say there wasn’t much whizzing about going on but we survived. Turning left at a major junction with what seemed like thousands of bikes all coming towards me at once was a particular moment I shall never forget.
THE KILLING FIELDS
Nearly 9000 were exhumed.
We arrived at the Cheoung Ek. It used to be a Chinese cemetery before the Khmer Rouge took it over. They turned it into a slaughter house with mass graves – The Killing Fields. We each got an audio tour that was listened to as we walked round the site. Made for some grim listening as you can imagine. Horrific times. I felt so sad and angry. There was virtual silence around the place even though it was busy with both foreign and Cambodian visitors. The minis, although not quite at the age where they can fully comprehend the atrocities and heinous crimes that went on, where interested in the history of the place and were shocked that people can be so evil. Fragments of teeth and bones still come up during the rainy season and are visible in the pits (mass graves). There are over 90 mass graves and the biggest had 450 bodies in it. The worst sight in the whole place is the Killing Tree. Babies and small children were murdered here by being bashed against the tree. Brings tears to my eyes every time I think of it.
Some of the burial pits.
The tree.
Bones still raise to the surface during the wet season.
Now, it’s the rainy season here and my god has it rained. Never seen rain fall so hard. The roads quickly flooded followed by the pavements disappearing and then bikes and cars becoming stranded. We had never seen anything like that before. We had to wade back to the hotel with the water literally over our knees. The minis thought it was just fantastic of course and I must say that it was very exciting for paul and I too for a while. Until you get the sewage back flow, and the rubbish floating past and you don’t know what you are actually wading through as its dark. The next day the same amount or rain fell but this time it was early afternoon.
The Minis thought it was great, until they saw what was floating in it!!!!!
How this bike kept going I will never know.
Tuol Sleng (genocide museum)
Went to the Genocide Museum where, again, the horrors of the Khmer Rouge were on show. The museums name is Tuol Sleng and it was a high school before Pol Pot and his comrades took over the country and banned education (smart move, not) The place is also know as S21. Code word for the Khmer Rouges Security Office HQ. A variety of prisoners where brought here for “questioning” and “interrogation” before being sent to the Killing Fields. (Not everyone made it to the Killing Fields). The tortures inflicted on prisoners here were just so barbaric, so evil. The make shift cells were only 6′ by 3′. What made the Tuol Sleng even more moving/poignant was the fact that because it was a school there was physical training apparatus in the play ground, this was also used by Pol Pots comrades for torture and punishment not exercise.
Entrance to S21
Make shift cells in one of the classrooms.
One of the interrogation rooms.
On the brighter side, we went to a little offering ceremony that was going on at a riverside temple in the city. The worshipers buy 3 lotus blooms and incense sticks, enter the temple and lay the flowers as offerings. Outside there were vendors selling tiny birds that were bought to be released, 2 birds for $1. There were also musicians playing traditional chants. It was fabulous.
$1 for 2 birds.
Off they go !!!
The markets of Phnom Penh are pretty mad and fascinating places. They sell it all! May even get the top spot for markets in our trip so far. Big, tightly packed dens of life. and what they don’t sell isn’t worth buying.The great thing is that in Europe (well in the UK anyway) our laws on the sale of meat prohibit you from selling it on unrefridgerated market stalls where as in Asia it is just sold literally on the street/market with no refrigeration not even a block of ice to keep it cool. The thing to remember is that here every day is between 28 and 30 degrees, somedays 40 so the meat must be on the turn really quickly, I wonder just how many people get food poisoning or do they build up immunity from it ? You just stand there in amazement sometimes staring at meat especially pork laying there in the heat of the day under full sun waiting to be sold. I would love to know how long it takes before it goes off ?
Butchers, Asian style.
Fishmongers, all the whole ones are still alive !!
We spent the next morning doing journals and then had a quick visit to the Royal Palace that was opposite our hotel. Some foreign dignitaries were visiting that day so we weren’t able to gain access to some of it, but what we did see was very beautiful and scrupulously clean. The whole palace is enclosed by a 3 metre high wall (as most are ) but like the Bangkok Palace the inside of the walls are covered in murals depicting different religious stories/scenes, the art work is so intricate and elaborate its amazing . Some of the walls are being restored, it seems as though the bottom third has suffered from damp and the wall covering is falling off, I cant imagine taking on the job of restoration, your work blending in with the original !!!!!!!!!!!!
While we were walking around you could see groups of monks (wearing the obligatory bright orange attire) taking holiday snaps of each other by some of the ornate buildings. It looked really strange, you don’t imagine them going on pleasure trips but obviously they do. As I was watching them I thought it would make a great photograph, them with the Minis but I decided that it would not be appropriate to ask them so I left it. It seems somewhat strange asking people permission to take their photo just because they appear different in some way, I know it happens to the Minis all the time and me sometimes but there is something uncomfortable about the experience so I decided to leave it.(sometimes the camera just has to stay In the bag!!!!!) We carried on, they went one way around the building we went the other our paths crossed again on the other side. They were standing there in a group chatting, as we got nearer one of them made a beeline for me “CAN WE HAVE PHOTO WITH CHILDREN” life never fails to amaze me !!!!!!!!!!!!!!
They wanted it, I got it !!!
That evening we went out for our first glass of wine since March, luckily for us there was a small French wine bar within striking distance of our residence so 2 glasses of Chilean Sauvignon Blanc ( as recommended by Monsieur) what a treat. It was so good we had one more. Absence makes the heart grow fonder. On the way back we went passed our favourite stall – DEEP FRIED CRITTERS. This was a stand and stare stall: frogs, baby birds, snakes, crickets, grubs, cicadas and tarantulas all deep fried. We had gone past this stall the night before and paid $1 to photograph it (great business sense). If you make a purchase no charge but this time I was up for it. I looked at the choice in front of me and decided that the big black Tarantula had to be sampled. I ordered one and she chucked in a handful of crickets for good measure. Sam and Joe went straight for the crickets leaving me with the prized morsel in the bottom of the bag.
Deep fried frogs.
Deep fried snake.
I reached in and picked it up, it looked disgusting, but by now word had got around so I had an audience. I inspected it and dissected it in my head, back legs and bulbous part of body in first, in it went, I crunched down on it and after a struggle bit it in half. It was strange looking down in my hand having half a tarantula nestling in it, during all of my recent travels I have been searching them out photographing them now I’m eating one! I started chewing on it my god it was really crunchy and I felt a piece lodge in between 2 teeth and it tasted like burnt rubber and plastic. It was foul. The bulbous part of the body was like rubberised caviar, once it burst it was like having thousands of rubber fish eggs floating around in your mouth, they were under my tongue around my gums and in between my teeth, I even thought I could feel the hairs on the legs, it was absolutely disgusting. It was the worst thing I have ever eaten and I hasten to add the other half went in the bin but only after Sam and Joe had a LEG EACH.
It had to be sampled !!
Know all i’ve got to do is crunch and swallow !!!!!
Sam said he wanted a leg, luckily there was enough to go round !!!!!!
Joe had one aswell.
Alas, time to leave the city of Phnom Penh and head west to the famous Siem Reap to see the spectacular Temples of Angkor. All 5 of us enjoyed PP and left it with more to see. Have to come back to it some time !!!!!!!